Nice bit of speculation there 
Should we spread that now or do you want to add a few features to spice it up?
Should we spread that now or do you want to add a few features to spice it up?
Die, thread. Bad thread.
RIP (hopefully)
RIP (hopefully)
And one silly option you should never use, that sets your wheels pressure / camber to symmetrical... can be renamed as race end
No problems here, although I seldom use the shi(f)ter.
I do know about that, but a worn out tyre should offer less grip than a new one.
The grip seems no different and cooling is better on thin tyres, so it seems to early to implement this system with the current model.
With this system a short race could be run on thin and old R1 set instead of new R2s with better results regarding both grip and temperature control.
The grip seems no different and cooling is better on thin tyres, so it seems to early to implement this system with the current model.
With this system a short race could be run on thin and old R1 set instead of new R2s with better results regarding both grip and temperature control.
But this has to wait - proper damage first!
We have tyre heat more or less working.
Tyre wear is implemented but has a strange effect (better cooling).
I suspect that tyre damage modelling is what we are missing to get there (damage other than flatspots, due to kerb riding / excessive heat affecting tyre surface and structure).
After this is in it would be a great addition to keep tyres / damage to the car / setup from race to race, according to server enforced / insim enforced rules.
so... +1 but not in the current status of LFS damage model.
We have tyre heat more or less working.
Tyre wear is implemented but has a strange effect (better cooling).
I suspect that tyre damage modelling is what we are missing to get there (damage other than flatspots, due to kerb riding / excessive heat affecting tyre surface and structure).
After this is in it would be a great addition to keep tyres / damage to the car / setup from race to race, according to server enforced / insim enforced rules.
so... +1 but not in the current status of LFS damage model.
Change the day! Thursday is the dMr long race day, and we don't see you there anymore fighting with Venca
Change the "Button control rate" value for RWD cars with a lot of power (much lower! around 2-3, play with it).
This will force a ramp into your inputs, making all of them progressive.
Setups can also help - open the differential a bit more to get stability out of corners.
Both will cost you speed but also make your driving more consistent and reliable.
A wheel would of course make it better
This will force a ramp into your inputs, making all of them progressive.
Setups can also help - open the differential a bit more to get stability out of corners.
Both will cost you speed but also make your driving more consistent and reliable.
A wheel would of course make it better
I remember (time goes by) that someone had programmed one of his wheel buttons to cycle through F9/F10 and posted that somewhere in the forums (I'll let you search ).
That allowed him to press 1 button only:
1st press showed F9
2nd press showed F10
3rd press closed them.
Would that meet what you need?
).That allowed him to press 1 button only:
1st press showed F9
2nd press showed F10
3rd press closed them.
Would that meet what you need?
Back on you original topic
Tyre model in LFS is interesting.
Tyre width is divided in 3 sections, and the circumference is 32 sections if I remember correctly. These sections mean that the tyres can heat unevenly / after a hard braking and locking up tyres, do press F9 to see tyres temp - internal (and CRTL+SHIFT for tyre surface) and drive at a very slow speed. You will see that some sections show a red color, some are green or even blue, and you also get a temperature display.
High temperature produces smoke, and if you had a lockup with only one spot of the tyre red then the smoke puffs do happen. Flatspots are also modelled and can be felt in the direction for FFB wheels.
Prevent lockups, for mouse / kb:
Decrease the "button control rate" so that it smoothens the on/off controls (adds a ramp). It will make you a bit slower for hotlaps but smoother, so faster for races.
Reduce brake force (not realistic, but you will be able to set it back up when you get the wheel and pedals) --> full speed on a straight, press "F" to see the forces and apply full brakes.
With the correct brake force the tyres should not lock up before you are very slow (slower that desired apex speed). Red arrows in the "F" view means tyre lockup. This will also allow you to set the brake balance.
By the way, you will have to start again with all your setups when you get the wheel.
Good luck!
Tyre model in LFS is interesting.
Tyre width is divided in 3 sections, and the circumference is 32 sections if I remember correctly. These sections mean that the tyres can heat unevenly / after a hard braking and locking up tyres, do press F9 to see tyres temp - internal (and CRTL+SHIFT for tyre surface) and drive at a very slow speed. You will see that some sections show a red color, some are green or even blue, and you also get a temperature display.
High temperature produces smoke, and if you had a lockup with only one spot of the tyre red then the smoke puffs do happen. Flatspots are also modelled and can be felt in the direction for FFB wheels.
Prevent lockups, for mouse / kb:
Decrease the "button control rate" so that it smoothens the on/off controls (adds a ramp). It will make you a bit slower for hotlaps but smoother, so faster for races.
Reduce brake force (not realistic, but you will be able to set it back up when you get the wheel and pedals) --> full speed on a straight, press "F" to see the forces and apply full brakes.
With the correct brake force the tyres should not lock up before you are very slow (slower that desired apex speed). Red arrows in the "F" view means tyre lockup. This will also allow you to set the brake balance.
By the way, you will have to start again with all your setups when you get the wheel.
Good luck!
It is the fault of the follower only when the field is more or less even (league races for example).
In LFS the differences in pace are huge - I remember on CTRA race 1 the fast ones were within 0.5-2s of WR times, while back on the grid there were drivers with no knowledge at all of the track (even taking the wrong direction in a turn)
In these situations I do not agree to blame the fast ones only, and RL rules do not apply - you would never have a race with people seeing the track for the first time on the grid together with seasoned racers! This is what we sometimes get on public servers though...
In LFS the differences in pace are huge - I remember on CTRA race 1 the fast ones were within 0.5-2s of WR times, while back on the grid there were drivers with no knowledge at all of the track (even taking the wrong direction in a turn
)In these situations I do not agree to blame the fast ones only, and RL rules do not apply - you would never have a race with people seeing the track for the first time on the grid together with seasoned racers! This is what we sometimes get on public servers though...
No worries - well used mouse, for these rather slow cars, is very competitive.
Be smooth!
Be smooth!
Why would you want a demo filter?
In my opinion the idea was to remove the separation between S2 and demo users, making it easier to mix... and give a better taste of S2 to demo users, by the great display of skills and racecraft offered by S2 users (hint of irony) as well as lovely skins. You know, like marketing the product for demo users!
In parallel Scawen introduced the "demo license" thing to reduce the % of deliberate wreckers from the demo - that has improved from what I can see.
Filter out demo cars and you have a demo filter?
In my opinion the idea was to remove the separation between S2 and demo users, making it easier to mix... and give a better taste of S2 to demo users, by the great display of skills and racecraft offered by S2 users (hint of irony) as well as lovely skins. You know, like marketing the product for demo users!
In parallel Scawen introduced the "demo license" thing to reduce the % of deliberate wreckers from the demo - that has improved from what I can see.
Filter out demo cars and you have a demo filter?
Good read - I'll keep the thesis for work boring moments though
ooops!
BL1R has been removed from the available combos for demo users
Pity as it is an excellent track.
BL1R has been removed from the available combos for demo users
Pity as it is an excellent track.
Your suggestion goes in the right direction, I like it - dynamic track conditions.
However I do not think modifying the layout / adding bumps from time to time would be my primary choice to achieve it (time consuming and spreading the racers database thin...).
I would rather have adherence / temperature conditions change, that would make each race / each run on a track unique.
I also agree with your analysis - just check how many servers run with the "no wind - sunny conditions". Simply add low wind and use a different light forcing the drivers to - slightly - adapt, and they complain about it
I may be an optimist yet I still bet on LFS being able to produce dynamic track conditions one day - that would meet your request I assume.
However I do not think modifying the layout / adding bumps from time to time would be my primary choice to achieve it (time consuming and spreading the racers database thin...).
I would rather have adherence / temperature conditions change, that would make each race / each run on a track unique.
I also agree with your analysis - just check how many servers run with the "no wind - sunny conditions". Simply add low wind and use a different light forcing the drivers to - slightly - adapt, and they complain about it
I may be an optimist yet I still bet on LFS being able to produce dynamic track conditions one day - that would meet your request I assume.
Sure!
See them brake in the straight when they get draft...
Better to post in the beginners' forum.
With S2 some mods are possible:
There is a layout editor with LFS (unavailable in the demo) that allows adding objects on the tracks - ramps, barriers, cones, tyre stacks...)
There is an application - external, with a licence check - that allows modding cars specifications, but not their aspect, as described in another post.
Many addons and minor modifications do exist - check in the appropriate section of this forum. Also available in the demo.
With S2 some mods are possible:
There is a layout editor with LFS (unavailable in the demo) that allows adding objects on the tracks - ramps, barriers, cones, tyre stacks...)
There is an application - external, with a licence check - that allows modding cars specifications, but not their aspect, as described in another post.
Many addons and minor modifications do exist - check in the appropriate section of this forum. Also available in the demo.
Niels: You forgot an important marketing point!
This mod is reversible (no permanent alteration of the pedal set) therefore it will not void the G25 warranty.
I made a similar (admittedly not good looking) modification to my pedal set, "borrowing" some parts from the workshop, and can say it makes H&T easier - in my case it made it possible, I could not do it properly without the mod.
This mod is reversible (no permanent alteration of the pedal set) therefore it will not void the G25 warranty.
I made a similar (admittedly not good looking
) modification to my pedal set, "borrowing" some parts from the workshop, and can say it makes H&T easier - in my case it made it possible, I could not do it properly without the mod.Don't forget to open the window during testing
Thanks Rusty, much better than anything I could do now - Rioja does not help.
Sorry Matrixi for the approximate information (ctrl+shift), I was not able to test at this time of the day.
One question remains: Where is the temperature for F9 display taken?
That may explain behaviour, although I agree that it seems to reach too high temperatures and cool down very slowly.
Sorry Matrixi for the approximate information (ctrl+shift), I was not able to test at this time of the day.
One question remains: Where is the temperature for F9 display taken?
That may explain behaviour, although I agree that it seems to reach too high temperatures and cool down very slowly.
Snipped your text there for the following point:
For information, the F9 display does not show the tyre surface temp in LFS.
If you want to see the real time surface tyre temperature you have to use shift+F9. Not easy to do when driving, but this shows the actual tyre surface temp and varies very quickly - both heating and cooling.
I do not know what part of the tyre's temperature is displayed in F9, probably some distance inside the thread - I remember AndroidXP stating that some time ago, maybe he has more data on this.
The "feels around 50°C" described above for track experience could be simulated in LFS - allow a cruise back to pits after a few rough corners and 30s cool down time in pits, then check the shift+F9 surface temperature - I wonder what it will look like.
1) do run in "Hotlap" mode, as it will tell you if your lap is valid or not, and it will also tell you what your best lap of the session is.
1:35 is feasible - you have it all here from what I see!
Your main problem seems to be consistency / repeatability - it seems that you are pushing a bit too hard at the moment.
My recommendation would be that you try running a few laps within a few 1/10th, 0.5 second. Try 1:37 ot 1:38, do 10 laps without outbraking / power understeering, smoothing your inputs.
Checking the replay: I use chase view or heli view for the lines, chase view and press F to see the forces on the tyres. There you can see when you lose grip and when you lock tyres. Use F2 + F3 to change the replay speed.
Lap 2: Locked tyres - outbraking yourself. Brake 10m early to get consistency, speed will come later. You had to release the throttle mid corner - no good.
Between T2 and T3 you slide most of the laps - correct your line to reduce that, as it is just before the long straight so it will cost you a lot of time. For this lap you were nearly there, good use of the kerbs, try to apply the same line each time.
T4 end of straight: apex too early, plunge further and apex later will be more efficient.
This turn cost you a lot of time in this lap! You also over-revved the engine into 3rg gear, probably causing damage.
T5-T6 ok, but missing speed due to T4.
T7: throttle too early --> understeer, missing apex and forcing you to lift.
T8: wrong line, probably due to dirty tyres.
Lap 3
T1: lockup, understeer and missed apex. Brake 10m earlier and decrease braking pressure as you slow down to prevent lockups. Do not apply throttle before the car is pointing in the right direction and while in full lock.
T2 -T3 ok but missing speed due to above
T4 certainly killed the engine again (3rd gear). Throttle on full lock again, before the car is stable, causes massive understeer-->forcing you to lift, big time loss.
For the rest:
Lap 4: good first tun! no lockups, good apex speed. Ruined by T2 - too much kerb though.
Good line in T5 - T6.
Lap 5: Good T2-T3, minimum slide. Despite a lockup and understeer in T1 the first split is good, showing the importance of T2-T3.
Lap 8: good first split, T1 with a later apex carried more speed through the chicane.
Overall decent lap.
I stopped here
You seem to use too much steering lock and have a tendency to turn in too early from what I have seen, compensated be power-understeering. Try it a bit smoother (slow in - fast out) and I'm sure your laptimes will drop. Concentrate on consistency first, then speed.
Good luck!
1:35 is feasible - you have it all here from what I see!
Your main problem seems to be consistency / repeatability - it seems that you are pushing a bit too hard at the moment.
My recommendation would be that you try running a few laps within a few 1/10th, 0.5 second. Try 1:37 ot 1:38, do 10 laps without outbraking / power understeering, smoothing your inputs.
Checking the replay: I use chase view or heli view for the lines, chase view and press F to see the forces on the tyres. There you can see when you lose grip and when you lock tyres. Use F2 + F3 to change the replay speed.
Lap 2: Locked tyres - outbraking yourself. Brake 10m early to get consistency, speed will come later. You had to release the throttle mid corner - no good.
Between T2 and T3 you slide most of the laps - correct your line to reduce that, as it is just before the long straight so it will cost you a lot of time. For this lap you were nearly there, good use of the kerbs, try to apply the same line each time.
T4 end of straight: apex too early, plunge further and apex later will be more efficient.
This turn cost you a lot of time in this lap! You also over-revved the engine into 3rg gear, probably causing damage.
T5-T6 ok, but missing speed due to T4.
T7: throttle too early --> understeer, missing apex and forcing you to lift.
T8: wrong line, probably due to dirty tyres.
Lap 3
T1: lockup, understeer and missed apex. Brake 10m earlier and decrease braking pressure as you slow down to prevent lockups. Do not apply throttle before the car is pointing in the right direction and while in full lock.
T2 -T3 ok but missing speed due to above
T4 certainly killed the engine again (3rd gear). Throttle on full lock again, before the car is stable, causes massive understeer-->forcing you to lift, big time loss.
For the rest:
Lap 4: good first tun! no lockups, good apex speed. Ruined by T2 - too much kerb though.
Good line in T5 - T6.
Lap 5: Good T2-T3, minimum slide. Despite a lockup and understeer in T1 the first split is good, showing the importance of T2-T3.
Lap 8: good first split, T1 with a later apex carried more speed through the chicane.
Overall decent lap.
I stopped here
You seem to use too much steering lock and have a tendency to turn in too early from what I have seen, compensated be power-understeering. Try it a bit smoother (slow in - fast out) and I'm sure your laptimes will drop. Concentrate on consistency first, then speed.
Good luck!
I've been a mouser for years (not by choice), now a G25 user.
Some pbs I did with the mouse are still out of reach for me, mostly low powered cars though.
However, longer races (above 30 minutes) with a mouse imply the following problems:
I never used the mouse again after getting a wheel, despite being way slower for many weeks.
Some pbs I did with the mouse are still out of reach for me, mostly low powered cars though.
However, longer races (above 30 minutes) with a mouse imply the following problems:
- Mouse kills your wrist
- Mouse burns the tyres unless you try to use the mouse as a wheel - slow, smooth steering and a button control rate low enough to get rid of the on/off problem (or click release at a inhuman rate), therefore discarding the "advantages" of the mouse
- Mouse will allow very fast countersteering - but you will need it much more often as it is much harder to feel the slide in its early phase.
- Most importantly, mouse driving is no fun at all compared to G25!
I never used the mouse again after getting a wheel, despite being way slower for many weeks.
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG